I figure if you aren't voiding your warranty, you aren't having as much fun as you can!

You can see (select highest resolution) that I wired direct to the shunt on this meter. The shunt is the bare copper wire. The shunt has a squished spot that I am pretty sure is how they calibrate it at the factory.

There is a 10 amp amp position on the dial. I needed to really rip apart and get into this meter when getting to the other side. Two ball bearings, two springs, a few pieces of the on and off switch, the display with its delicate zebra strip connections and four tiny self tapping screws of which two holes needed repairing because they overtightened them at the factory and stripped them. Do you see the thin land to the right of the three silver banana plug sockets? That's about the size of the land that fried on the other side that was trying to handle about 5 amps when it vaporized.
The thinner red wire is a jumper that I used to bypass the vaporized land so the Volt/Ohm function would operate again.
Oh yea, the 1/2 amp fuse blew too, so I sister-ed another fuse to it.
The instruction manual for this meter says 10 amps, but the back of the package said something like 200mAs! The wiring direct to the shunt so far works well.

**** NOTE, just an idea to keep on the back burner:
it would be a little more work, but I could probably install a TPTT or FPTT switch and wire the meter so that selecting Amps or Volts did just that, instead of having to now select Amps or Volts, then also rotate the dial on the VOM to Amps or Volts.

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